 |
In
the heart of Campo Marzio there are two of the most beautiful
and typical squares of Rome: Piazza Navona, standing on the remains
of the Domitianus stadium (of which keeps the shape) and Campo
de’ Fiori which was still a meadow (that is why “campo”)
with flowers and some cultivated gardens in the Renaissance period.
As from the 15th century, in between the two squares many important
palaces rose: the Riario Palace, the De Cupis Palace, the Braschi
Palace, the Farnese Palace and the Pamphilij Palace only to mention
some.
On the occasion of the building belonging to the family of Pope
Innocenzo X (from the Pamphilij family), architect Gian Lorenzo
Bernini was entrusted with the construction of the spectacular
fountain of the Four Rivers (“fontana dei Quattro Fiumi”)
while Francesco Borromini was entrusted with the building of “Sant’
Agnese in Agone” church, just opposite to the fountain at
the centre of the square. |
|
According
to an anecdote of the time, one of the male sculptures at the
base of the obelisk was designed by Bernini with a hand raised
as to protect itself from the imminent collapse of the façade
of the church built by Borromini, as a sort of “revenge”.
In fact Bernini, who was the favourite architect of Pope Urbano
VIII was excluded by his successor, Pope Innocenzo X who preferred
Borromini instead.
Around the two squares several trade activities started over the
years: inns (among which the famous “Locanda della Vacca”
- literally the “Inn of the Cow”- managed by Vannozza
Cattanei who gave four children to Pope Alessandro VI, whose lay
name was Rodrigo Borgia), as well as hostels for pilgrims and
craftsmen’s workshop like makers of stringed instruments
(literally “Liutai”), of booksellers (literally “Librai”)
and key-makers (literally “Chiavari”). Nowadays some
of the roads around the area bear the names of these craftsmen.
|
|
|
 |
Campo
de’ Fiori, the only big Roman square with no church, witnessed
stakes of heretics who were condemned: the most known of them
was Giordano Bruno and nowadays his statue, erected at the end
of 19th century, dominates the centre of the square among the
fruit and vegetable stalls. The stalls of spices and delicacies
are particularly famous in this popular open market which had
been moved from Piazza Navaona in 1869. Between Campo de’
Fiori and Piazza Navona there is a wide selection of places where
to eat or drink: from the bars which offer “aperitifs”
in the late afternoon, to the typical and small restaurants, up
to the pubs,
the wine bars and the disco-bars which bring life and fun to the
district. In Piazza Navona you will always find street artists,
landscape painters and portraitists exhibiting their works. |
|
Things
not to miss :
Archaeology:
the remains of the Domitianus stadium beneath Piazza Navona and
those of the Pompeum Theatre close to Campo de’ Fiori, and
of course the Pantheon that is at walking distance from Piazza
Navona.
The Renaissance and Baroque art is represented in this district
by all the great masters: the Sybills by Raphael in “Santa
Maria della Pace” church, the masterpieces of Caravaggio
in “Sant’ Agostino” and “San Luigi dei
Francesi” churches, the works by Carracci in the Farnese
Palace and the masterpieces at “Galleria Spada”, where
you can find the famous prospective illusion gallery of Borromini.
|
|
|
|
